E2E … Done

On the September 23rd, 2016, two vehicles were parked just off the Waterville exit of I-40.  My wife, CJ Mull, and my friends Jeremy Kohnstamm and Cristina Boone were there to pick up six weary hikers.  Two of us finishing over half the length of the Smokies.  Four more finishing all of it.  All of us full of both excitement and remorse that it was over.

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At the end (l-r): Steve Pauly, Wally Hynds, Dustan Hollifield, Phil Boone, Jeremi Karnell, Michael Karnell.

 

The journey started on Friday, September 16, at the AT trailhead at Fontanna.  CJ dropped us off and then myself, Steve Pauly, Phil Boone and Dustan Hollifield climbed to Doe Gap to start an 8 day, 75 mile hike.  Three days later we were joined by Michael Karnell and Jeremi Karnell at Clingmans Dome.  The hike took 8 days, following the length of the Appalachian Trail through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park including remarkab

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le landmarks the likes of:

 

  • Shuckstack
  • Mollies Ridge Shelter
  • Russell Field Shelter
  • Rocky Top
  • Thunderhead
  • Silers Bald Shelter
  • Clingmans Dome
  • Mount Collins Shelter
  • Newfound Gap
  • Icewater Springs Shelter
  • Charlies Bunion
  • Pecks Corner Shelter
  • Mount Guyot
  • Cosby Knob Shelter
  • Mount Camerer

As great as these places were to visit, they are almost overshadowed by the friendly people we met along the way and the joy of hiking with this group of companions.  Thanks to the supporters and thanks to Eddie Weaver, Kenny Edwards and Michael Galloway who were on-call to come get us if we got into deep soup.

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Le Conte I

This hike was popular (8 hikers) and much enjoyed so I am guessing we will revisit Le Conte before the season is out (hence the I).  Participants included (left to right below) Ed Shultz, Ryan Pauly, Michael Pauly, Steve Pauly, Phil ‘water boy’ Boone, Christina Boone and Sally Childress.  Not sure where I was at the time.

Group

The weather was almost perfect.  Alum Cave trail is undergoing renovation and although it is still quite rugged, it was not like it has been in the past.

We visited the lodge (Food Court) and the gift shop (Mall).  We lunched at Cliff Top where the vistas were amazing (photo below).  We visited the shelter (closed due to aggressive bear activity).  We went out Myrtle Point which was clouded in for the most part.  Then we skipped down back to the parking lot.

View

The climb is about 5 1/2 miles but with some browsing around on the top, the up-browse-down distance turned out close to 13.  Cumulative climb was in the vicinity of 3200 feet.

Map  Profile

If you did not go this time then for sure go next time.

Steve’s Contribution from Philmont

Philmont Scout Ranch is a large, rugged, mountainous ranch located near the town of Cimarron, New Mexico, covering 140,177 acres.  Last year Steve, sons and other scouts did a 9 day thing there and learned a great deal.  Here is an excerpt from an email he sent me.  It provides a lot of good information and linkes to info directly from Philmont.
Philmont has a lot of info for preparation for crews going there that might be handy for people to look at for our trip.  It includes equipment lists, shakedown guides, and now has the 2016 menus.  Keep in mind these are for scouts and for 10 day backpacking trips so might not be totally applicable for us:
Preparation videos at bottom including how to pack a backpack:  click here
What to bring:  click here
Shakedown guides: click here
2016 Breakfast menus:  click here
2016 Lunch menus:  click here
2016 Dinner menus:  click here
The meals might be good examples of how many calories per day they gave us and maybe gives some ideas on things to try.   I forgot this, but there were a couple of the breakfasts that required cooking, but most of the time the breakfasts were cold.
They recommend at least two “shakedowns” for each crew before coming to Philmont.  A shakedown was a longer (2 night/3 day) backpacking trip around 20 miles total to try out things.   We did many day hikes and several one nighters and a couple of two nighters.

Norris but First This

First This

StevesSnakeSteve ‘I aint afraid of no snake’ Pauly got in a Haw hike and ran into a friend.  This is a good time to dole out a safety tip.  If you see a snake (an easily recognizable pit viper in particular), we do not recommending bonding or hanging around for photos etc.  Lots of amateurs weighed in and we are pretty sure it is a copperhead.   That said, great photo, Steve.

I got in a 4.5 in the rain and learned to put your gear on before the rain is pounding on you or you will just be wet under your rain gear.  I actually learned that one on the Leconte hike.  With that in mind I was much drier this time.

And Now The Norris Hike

Steve Pauly, Phil ‘I need a bigger knife’ Boone, ColageChristina Boone and myself started early on Norris Watershed.  We got in 6.5 miles with about 1600 ft of cumulative climb.  The climbs included Eagle trail and Ridgecrest.

It was a tad cool at the start but perfect weather otherwise.  We had enough time left over to browse the grist mill.

We are using these hikes to ‘discover’ what works and what does not.  Plus, they are just a bunch of fun.  You should join us.

 

Snow in May

WP_20160506_17_09_21_ProThanks to a friend of mine, Kenny Edwards, I was lucky to get a chance to overnight in Leconte Lodge Friday (May 6).  Of course, you have to get there and get back.

There are actually 5 trails that climb Mount Leconte (the second highest peak in the Smokies).  We chose the Trillium Gap trail.  Just under 7 miles of trail that climbs about 3400 feet.  It made for a good training hike for me even though my pack was a mere 12 lbs.

You hike up.  They feed you dinner; put you up in rustic cabins; and feed you breakfast.  Then you hike back down.  Along the way, there is beautiful scenery, talk around the propane stoves, llamas, bluegrass music (our group included three members of the String Dusters), and for me … some Kentucky Bourbon.

We knew before we started that the weather was going to be interesting.  It snowed on the peak that night before we did the climb.  On the way up, hikers coming down said it was still snowing on the top.  The trail had a lot of running water.  Over 5000 feet there was snow and slush.  By the time we got to the top, it had stopped snowing but brisk wind and temps around 30 made it a bit chilly.  That’s Eddie and Kenny in the slushy pic.

Leconte is just a beautiful and unusual place regardless of the weather.  Read the blogs from time-to-time.

http://www.highonleconte.com/daily-posts

We had better trail conditions on the trip down but still pretty damp.  The amazing thing was to start a hike in the 30s with snow on the ground and change to shorts and sandals at the car.  By the time I got home it was in the 80s.

The staff up there was great.  I was in the great company.  It was truly special two days.

Hike trillium gap if you get a chance

http://www.hikinginthesmokys.com/lecontetrillium.htm

 

Feet Wet at Frozen Head

Steve Pauly led us on a ‘get your feet wet’ climber at Frozen Head State Park and well … we got our feet wet.  It rained on us the very last hour.  By the time we were back to the parking lot, the rain was sincere.  We stayed dry where it mattered except, of course, Phil ‘I don need no stinkin rain gear‘ Boone.

Here is a pic of Chase McCall, Boone and Pauly.  They got some stranger to take the pic and for some reason he made it a selfie.  WP_20160430_12_03_51_Pro

There is an observation tower at the top.  It was windy and trying hard to rain but we still got some great views, including the picture below that Steve took.

The Smoky Mountains would normally be visible but they were hard to pick out.  We could make out Kingston steam plant which is located near I-40.

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Specifics

It was just under a 5 hour day.  We covered 7.7 miles.  The cumulative climb is yet to come.

The hike started at Old Mac Trailhead.  We took South Old Mac trail to Tub Springs Campsite.  Then to the Lookout tower for snax and views.  We descended along Chimney Top Trail and then took Spicewood trail pretty much to the car.

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Starter Hike II (and Red Rock Canyon)

Today, Steve Pauly, Christina Boone, Phil ‘Da Lamma’ Boone and myself did a second starter hike at Haw Ridge.  In roughly 2016-04-24 GPS Mapfour hours we got in 8.7 miles but a mere 1295 ft of climb.  We were really shooting for distance this time.  We stuck mostly to the perimeter trails.  I’d like to see more participants but I  thought it went really well.

Phil loaded his new pack with 2+ gallons of water (hence the moniker ‘Da Lamma’).  Perfect weather.  Good trail conditions. It was a bunch of fun.

Around 9:30 AM they turned off the gravity in Oak Ridge (dang physicists).  It was just for a moment but it scared the crap out of me.  The Boone family handled it professionally.

You can see, this was a very serious ordeal.

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Red Rock Canyon

Back on April 12 I got to hike to Turtlehead Peak in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada.  It was a stunning place and a tough 5 mile hike.  Here is a picture of the famous red rock and another of Turtlehead Peak.

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Your Feet

Lots of people will have good and bad experiences with boots and socks so this post can be a discussion topic.  If you have a personal note then please leave a comment.

I have been a Vasque boot guy my entire adult life.  They have always been a bit pricey but worth it to me.  Also, I had different boots for ‘day hike’ versus ‘overnight’.  When my Vasque Sundowners finally gave up on me last year I was braced to spend a lot of money replacing a good overnight boot.

Turns out that modern boots have improved in almost all respects including price.  This means you can spend less and get more … including one pair of boots that function fine for both day and overnight hiking.

For the e2e, here are my recommendations:

  • Get a boot with a waterproof lining (goretex or the like).  You do not want to start an after-the-rain day with wet boots.
  • Avoid the super-low-top boots that look like rugged tennis shoes.  Way into the backwoods, an ankle sprain becomes a really big deal.
  • Socks matter!  I use a wool/synthetic blend.  Wool is a nicer every-day material than you would think.
  • Do some research and choose a reputable brand.  My limited research turned up Vasque, La Sportiva and Oboz.
  • Get into your boots and socks as early as possible.  They are the piece of gear you want to have the most experience with when you do the e2e.

I ended up with a pair of Oboz Yellowstone.  I love them and they were just over $120.

What do you guys think?

Added 2016-04-24

To date I know of two pair of Vasque St. Elias and one pair of Oboz Bridgers purchased.  Not shoes but there has also been an Osprey Exos and an Osprey Atmos 65 Ag purchased.

 

Steve’s Thoughts on Gear

This is an email from Steve Pauly … a good friend of mine we may be lucky enough to have with us on the e2e.  He has done the Philmont hike and others recently. Here are some of his thoughts on gear based on his experiences.

Thought I would look a bit at packs, and share one site that gives a bit of an overview:

http://www.cleverhiker.com/best-backpacking-backpacks/

My pack currently is an REI Flash 65.   I am not entirely sure they still make it, and I think it weighed around 3.5 pounds.   I have heard a lot of good things about Osprey and I have a Talon pack from them that I used on our practice hike, and am thinking of getting something by them … looking at the Exos 58 at REI right now online, or perhaps the Aether or Atmos…

For a multi-day trip, Philmont recommended that the boys use a 60-70 Liter pack size (if I remember correctly), and the 65 Liter Flash worked fine.  Ultralight packs are typically in the 1 to 3 pound range, and usually can’t carry more than 30 lbs very comfortably.  At Philmont, I carried around 38-45 pounds.   Packs weighing 7 pounds or more are also out there…I personally would stay away from a pack that weighs more than 5 pounds.  I recall hearing that the larger the pack, the more stuff you will carry and the more weight you will end up with…so keep the pack smaller to make yourself not carry it.  It is a bit difficult when doing multi-day trips though, as you need the space and load bearing capability to carry the food for the extended trip.

It will be important to decide on some things regarding shelter, food, and cooking.   The size of the pack needs to be larger if carrying large items like 4 quart-8 quart pots that work for the entire group…like we did at Philmont.   Personally, I would prefer to carry my own small stove and small titanium pot (butane, stove, lighter all stow within pot), but it would be inefficient to use it for everyone, and depends on how we are doing meals.  I have a larger Whisperlite stove that uses liquid “white gas” fuel which we used at Philmont if you want to try it out.   I have heard that many AT thru hikers go with homemade coke/beer/catfood can stoves that burn alcohol.  Easy to resupply at small towns, light weight, and pretty efficient for stretching alcohol fuel, but slow to boil compared to the butane stove I usually use.  I made one of these and it did work, so perhaps a very light weight way to go? This one seems to have a lot of fans:

http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/index.html

I believe we went 3 to 4 days at Philmont before resupplying and recall stopping at a resupply area twice in 11 days of hiking.  The food was packaged and labeled in clear plastic bags where each bag was one meal for two people.  The only hot meals were dinners, and otherwise it was always cold stuff, and pretty good…pop tarts, bags of nuts, granola, some specialized stuff made for hiking…etc.  Lunches were the same and usually had some meat in a pouch like spam or small cans of chicken, along with ritz crackers, cheese sticks, raisins, etc.  They usually included gatorade mix, which I skipped because I didn’t want to permanently stain my water bottle, until the end when I caved.   Dinners were the usual dehydrated meals where you add boiled water and mix/wait and then eat.  One of these meals was memorable because there was a box of stove top stuffing which took us by surprise.  The boys did all the cooking and I believe we had two pots, one that was used to boil water and one that was used to mix the meal up for everyone.  This was group cooking for dinner.

I am thinking of trying to hammock the whole thing, or use the hammock fly as a shelter if there happens to be a spot with no trees (yeah right, no trees here?).   I will go along with whatever you and the group want to do though.  I have a large sil-nylon tarp that we used to shelter our backpacks and gear each night (no backpacks in shelters as extra precaution against attracting bears to any smells of food that might remain in the pack), which I can bring in if you want to consider it as a group shelter.  I wouldn’t want to put a pole int he middle to support it as it might poke thru, and instead we used two trekking poles at the ends to pull it out and then staked down the corners and sides.

Crew gear at Philmont:

  • Large first aid kit (I carried this)
  • Couple of large pots
  • Whisperlite stove
  • 2 fuel bottles for the stove
  • One multi-tool (I carried this)
  • Mixing spoons
  • Cleaning supplies
  • One large tarp Rope for hanging bear bags
  • Tents (2 per tent)
  • Dromedarys – 2 bags for storing/carrying water to dry camp sites
  • Water purification tablets (no filters needed)
  • Toilet Paper

Each person carried their own sleeping bag, pad, clothes, head lamp, and 3 liters of water.  We each had a small bowl and our own spoon.  Every person had to have rain jackets and pants.  I had one pair of convertible pants (same as I used Saturday), couple of changes of underwear, a few pairs of socks, two t-shirts, and one longer sleeve heavier shirt, a fleece beanie, and some thin gloves.   It got real cold at 9000 feet or so one morning.   NO COTTON.   I think we all brought some crocks or something to change into in camp to rest our feet from the boots.  I also think we all brought small lightweight camp chairs.   I also had a small solar cell and rechargeable battery pack which I strapped to the top of my pack.  This charged up while hiking and I used it to charge my phone overnight.  My phone was left in airplane mode, but this allowed its GPS to track our progress on the My Tracks app from Google, so that I could generate maps when we returned.

My impression was that the food was by far the bulkiest thing we carried.  Packs were heavy and really stuffed full when resupplied, and refreshingly light and emptier just before resupply.  I think the food was not necessarily packaged to be the smallest, but there was plenty of it and it was good trail food.  I suspect this will be the hardest thing to work out with a group…what food to bring and resupply with and whether it is individually prepared or group prepared.  I have been on camping trips where boys have pulled out boxes of donuts and loafs of bread to make a sandwich and where hanging up the bear bags at night nearly brings down a tree with the weight of the extra food some of them seem to bring.  We also have brought eggs just for the challenge of packing them so they don’t break.

Steve

Thanks, Steve, for your insights.  We will have more discussions about gear shortly.

 

Starter Hike

2016-04-02 e2e_starter

The e2e is going to require a good bit of preparation.  This weekend we launched that preparation with a starter hike at Haw Ridge.  Steve Pauly and Phil ‘cilled a bar’ Boone and I did a 5 miler.

We went up V-Trail and down to Lake.  Turned west to Middle out to the power line.  Turned north and up the Hill-of-Truth.  Then east across half of Criminal; down Washing Machine then Edgemore and Soccer home.

This path crossed the ridge twice for a total climb of just around 1100 ft.

Testing out nothing but the legs, all six of them seemed to work fine.

The photo is of me and Steve at the top of the Hill-of-Truth.  This nasty little climb has had its way with me on the bike.  Today, not so much.